I’m baaack.
There are a few ways in which I’ve been gone: I took a trip; I went shopping; I got sick. Then there’s the part of me that’s permanently checked out–into a corner of my brain I like to call DreamySpaceLandofTooMuchWineandReading.
For all of those reasons, I thank Vicky for allowing me to share her tortured tale here. Yesterday, she and Mr P went to court again; I haven’t heard yet how things shook out, but all my digits are crossed for an outcome that consists of pain for Evil Mehmet.
Anyhow, I’ve been pipping along the continuum from bliss to–how do you say it in your country?–the shits.
Bliss came from our family’s ten-day vacation to the Mediterranean (aka The Turquoise Coast). Because we’re trying to visit as many of the various pockets of Turkey as we can during our time here, it seemed a sacrifice we had to make. It was unbelievable. We spent two nights in Antalya, three nights in Cirali, three nights in Kas, and then returned for two more nights in Cirali, as it had won the hearts of each member of the family. A full post about this vacation, along with an extended slideshow of photos, can be seen at www.layingfallow.com/turkeyblog.
Once we got home, we headed to Urgup to the weekly market, so that we could re-up on produce…and as long as we were there, we decided to try one more time to track down the elusive “used kilim” shop that is rumoured to be The Place to satisfy one’s kilim hankerings without flattening one’s partial-pay-this-year wallet. After yet another frustrating wander around the auto repair district of Urgup, after asking several Turks who work in that district but being told no such used kilim shop exists, we got lucky: Groom spotted wicker in a window and, in a leap of extrapolation, said, “I think that’s it. Where there’s wicker, there are rugs.” We wandered in and were taken to the cramped–delightfully so–upstairs, which is full of stack after stack of folded kilim rugs. The owner’s son, one sweating Mustafa, spent an hour taking down rugs, throwing them out on the floor, creating a growing pile of possibilities. The prices quoted were beyond fair, less than a 5′ x 7′ synthetic piece of nothing would be a J.C. Penney’s back home. So we ended up with four rugs, a big pillow cover made out of kilim, a set of kilim bicycle panniers for Groom’s new cargo bike which already awaits his return in a neighbor’s garage, and a firm intention to return. Because, really. As soon as we had paid, I realized we hadn’t even considered small rugs, say, for in front of the kitchen sink…or for Christmas presents (start your suckupage now: you still have time to make the cut!). Our time in the kilim shop was sort of like ten days on The Turquoise Coast, only condensed into an hour and smelling like sweat and mothballs. At any rate, it was dazzlingly good time.
Less thrilling was the nasty stuff that set into my bowels a day or two later, not only causing screaming mi-mi runs to the toilet every 20 minutes, but also sending me into shivers and shakes that could only calm if I suckered up to Groom, the human radiator, while he slept. For two days, I was tapped out, unable to leave my perch on the bed save for trips to the bathroom. I’d be caught in that cycle still, were it not for a lovely and gracious expat neighbor who sent over three pills of Sipro out of her precious stash from the U.S. I wish I’d known about Sipro when we first arrived, when I experienced three unrelenting months of Crabby Bowels, but at least, in the midst of that bout, I still had energy and will. This time around was dramatically different, in terms of how tapped out and nonfunctional I felt. In fact, I was so flat and feverish that it was all I could do to lie horizontally and watch multiple episodes off iTunes of TOP CHEF: JUST DESSERTS. And, as is true of every low time in one’s life: lessons can be learned. For me, after two days of slouching around tragically, I came away with new knowledge: them pastry chefs are a vicious lot. Oh, and also: a generous neighbor can get you back on your feet.
Thus, as of this typing, I’m on the mend–still not completely myself, but at least myself enough to fake it–and looking forward to an afternoon at said neighbor’s astoundingly beautiful house. Our family gets to help her pot a bunch of annuals so that her house is in prime shape…when a reporter from the New York Times shows up in a week or so to do a spread on the place. Seriously, it’s one of the most sensorily pleasing places I’ve ever been to.
You better bet I’m taking my camera when we head over to “help pot the flowers.” (pictures to follow!) In the meantime, below are some photos from our time on the Mediterranean along with a few of our new kilims. Sometimes, I wonder how much more texture and light and color my body can absorb (and expel) before I hit my limit.
Ah, it would appear fortunate then that I don’t believe in limits.
- On our last day of the trip, I took a late afternoon hike along several kilometers of the Lycian Way (a trail that runs 509 kilometers total). It was a pretty technical trail, so I appreciated every step where I didn’t plummet off the cliffside and was, intead of dying, able to snap a photo.
- When we stayed in the fishing village of Kas, we took a day-long boat tour of the islands in the area. We had three swim breaks on the boat and then an excellent stop at the town of Simena (reachable only by boat), a place that has the ruins of a Crusader castle and a long stretch of jaw-dropping Lycian tombs.
- This is the beach at Cirali. There is nothing to say except this: it was a wonderland.
- We stayed in the village of Cirali for five nights total; one of the highlights was a tromp through the ruins of the ancient city of Olympos, which are located conveniently near the beach (how cool of them Greeks to foresee our desire to swim and sun and then cap off the day with a meander through their shards of mosaics).
- This is taken in Antalya, a huge city on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast. I did not either get so excited to be in from the sticks that I grabbed the children and ran for the nearest McDonald’s.
- Something about Rug On Rug makes me think of a desperate 55-year-old man who’s trying a bit too hard to hang onto the hair he had as quarterback in high school. Hey, the Hair Club for Men should start a line of Kilim Weaves! Anyhow, the long rug here will go in our upstairs hallway. The rug underneath is our landlord’s and will stay in Turkey; it’s the one Groom just about set fire to the first time he was lighting the sobas this past winter, when the propane lighter tank took on a life of its own and got away from him.
- Here we have a close up of the crazy hieroglypic/bird/alien rug. See how it’s wacky but appealing? Do you read any blogs written by people like that? I know I do. And, yes, I’m thinking of YOU as I type that, Nutjob.
- Here’s a close up of the pattern on the rug that we will use to cover the sitting area (some people call it a “couch”). Turkish seating is usual comprised of cushions covered by kilims, so we’ll buy a chunk of thick cushion and then wrap this rug around it. Could there be anything prettier to perch our heinies on as we watch 30 ROCK?
- This is a huge pillow cover that we’ll stuff and use in the “Turkish television room” that we plan to create when we return home.
- This kilim will go on the floor of our bedroom or under our dining room table. Picture it covered with Yukon Golds and fajita drippings.
- At first, Groom wasn’t thrilled with this piece because it looks “busy.” However, the crazy non-pattern of hieroglyphic figures, bird heads, alien noggins, and all sorts of “don’t know WHAT it is, but know we like it” won him over. In contrast, Paco was a huge fan from the start.












Stopping by to say hello. Will return later. Because, really.
That bout of Delhi belly wasn’t bad at all, you managed to get off the loo long enough to lie in bed.
That’s what comes from drinking the water, at least that’s what the British say.
At least you had a good time beforehand.
You’ve got kilim for friends-I-haven’t-met-yet-but-know-I-will-someday, right? I love the busy, hieroglyphic rug. So many beautiful colors.
So sorry about the grumbly guts and so glad you are feeling better. That Sipro will cure what ails ya — it pulled me out of a horrific sinus infection one Christmas at the in-laws.
Have you heard of doctor fish? Read about them on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doctor_fish), then proceed to wherever they are and partake. When Smokey told me about them I was enchanted. I think it would tickle.
Never heard such an entertaining story of the runs, but I’m thinking that the true test of Jocelyn’s humour would have been when you were right in the, ah, thick (or thin) of it. You’re amazing.
) will be able to haul on over to your house for a Friday night of television and get a feel for the place.
Also, I like the way you shop. One of the basic tenets of my faith is that when you find something incredible, you buy multiples and worry about transport later. In fact, you don’t even worry about it, you just make it happen. Because it’s unthinkable that you would leave all those lovely things there in the shop and to hell with baggage allowances.
And it’s fun to think that all those people who didn’t get the chance to visit you in Turkey (yours truly included
I’m seconding yogurt’s comment above. Friends whom you just haven’t yet met. Killim for those friends, too????
This kind of experience….the being sick and all is what will make for a wonderful story in your old age as you tell the great grandchildren about all of it.
I thought everyone left the country with a hefty supply of Cipro–I’m glad you found some. I’m also glad it was after, and not during, your fantastic vacay.
The rugs are gorgeous!
oh let the wailing and gnashing of teeth begin…..if i had thought to mention cipro and the joys of otc antibiotics early on in your turkish life i may have ingratiated myself enough to warrant a kilim!
ah but they are lovely. so lovely in fact that i rushed thru the landscape shots to see the kilims and didn’t regret it.
When my sister and BIL got that in Nepal, they called it the Kathmanflu (and sometimes the Kathmanpoo). An unfortunate travel problem, to be sure. But the Mediterranean is good.
Thank God for friends with drugs. So glad you’re feeling better. i wanna rug. How difficult it must have been to choose. Thinking I could hang out at some of those beaches.